A distinction is often drawn between Cambodia’s pre-war and post-war cuisine, according to Kanika Linden and Sorey Long, authors of Au Pays de la Pomme Cythère (2009) a book about Cambodian food published in France.
Many consider that knowledge of Cambodian cuisine tragically died when the Khmer Rouge took over. Kanika explains, “Anything symbolizing the old regime had to be eradicated — culture, religion, arts. As such, family recipes, cookbooks and food publications were destroyed.”
Luckily for us, some of this rich knowledge has been retained, and reinvigorated in the tasty cuisine that is available in Southern California’s Cambodia Town. We dined at Phnom Penh Noodle Shack; a family-owned restaurant whose signature dish (Phnomh Penh Noodle) reflects the unequivocal heart and soul of Khmer cooking, in the distinctive interior of Long Beach. Prahok, is salt-fermented mudfish, mashed and squished into a kind of paste; it is considered one of the cornerstones of Khmer cooking. I tasted prahok in Phnomh Penh Noodle Shack’s dish and in the broth. Every other Asian noodle dish has paled in comparison. The broth. Lucky indeed.
1644 Cherry Ave, Long Beach; (562) 433-0032; thenoodleshack.com
Bess Emano Walden 
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